Free tea cosy patterns to help Craft a cure for Cancer.
Tuesday, 16 July 2019
Congratulations Kaye Whitney, winner of the $250 cash prize for the best tea cosy, in the Tea Cosy Competition 2019.
Yes!! It is a tea cosy; you need to look closely to see the handle and spout of the teapot. All of the children who live in the shoe are engaged in different activities....A very impressive tea cosy!!
There were several other tea cosies that impressed the judges, including a beautiful felted and embroidered cottage, and a wicked witch.
Thursday, 4 April 2019
Tea Cosy Competition 2019
This is an annual fundraiser for the Cancer Council
Best tea cosy, $250 cash prize
Please join with us as we Craft a cure for cancer, by making a tea cosy for our exhibition in July. You could win the prize for the Best tea cosy.
Then bring your friends along to the Warratina Lavender Farm in July to see your tea cosy in our Exhibition. There'll be a display of 40 beautiful quilts; as well as lots of varied craft items for sale. For tea cosy lovers, this is the biggest tea cosy display you'll see; and it's your big chance to buy the tea cosy of your dreams.
All money raised is donated to the Cancer Council. We've raised over $50,000 so far. Please help us in our quest to Craft a Cure for Cancer.
To enter the competition, make a tea cosy, and send it to the address at the bottom of the page.
To enter the competition, make a tea cosy, and send it to the address at the bottom of the page.
Pin a note on the tea cosy with your name and phone number, so we can contact you if you are a prize winner.
All entries for the competition must be received by Friday, 5th July, 2019.
If you'd like to donate a tea cosy, soft toy, or other craft item to our fundraiser, and are not interested in winning a prize, please send it to us by Friday 12th July. As well as tea cosies, small soft toys are a favourite with our customers, and are a very welcome donation.
If you'd like to donate a tea cosy, soft toy, or other craft item to our fundraiser, and are not interested in winning a prize, please send it to us by Friday 12th July. As well as tea cosies, small soft toys are a favourite with our customers, and are a very welcome donation.
All items received will be on display and for sale at Warratina Lavender Farm,
105 Quayle Road, Wandin Yallock, from 13th to 21st July 2019.
For some creative ideas and free patterns, check out www.facebook.com/teacosycompetition, andhttp://teacosycompetition.blogspot.com .
To make a donation to the Tea Cosy Competition fundraising effort for the Cancer Council, go to http://i-will.cancervic.org.au/event/craftacure.
Please note that the tea cosies or other items that you send to us cannot be returned. They will be displayed and sold at Warratina Lavender Farm, to raise money for the Cancer Council.
Any that remain unsold after the display will be sold at Lorenti Café, Park Rd, Park Orchards, or at markets and other events from time to time.
All money raised will be donated to the Cancer Council.
Any that remain unsold after the display will be sold at Lorenti Café, Park Rd, Park Orchards, or at markets and other events from time to time.
All money raised will be donated to the Cancer Council.
Post your entries to 'Tea Cosy Competition', PO Box 109, East Ringwood, 3135, Victoria, Australia.
or
- Entries can be left with Annemarie at the tea rooms, Warratina Lavender Farm, 105 Quayle Road, Wandin Yallock.
- Entries can be left with Chris and Sandie at Lorenti Cafe, Park Rd, Park Orchards (near the corner of Hopetoun Rd).
Wednesday, 25 July 2018
Wednesday, 27 June 2018
The 2018 Tea Cosy Exhibition is approaching fast....
Please note our new fundraising page is at https://craftacure.everydayhero.com/au/teacosy-competition.
Saturday, 16 June 2018
For all the details on how to enter the Tea Cosy Competition for 2018, click on the ' Tea Cosy Competition Information' tab, above. Or scroll down past the owl pattern, the information is below that.
Here's the updated version of the dog tea cosy pattern. Enjoy. Please help us in our fundraising effort for the Cancer Council...we're crafting for a cure for cancer.
‘Alfie the Spoodle Puppy’
Tea Cosy
You’ll need 4x50g balls of Passioknit Cassowary, in White.
One pair of 6
mm knitting needles.
(For a less fluffy effect, use 2x50g balls of
Cossowary, or other fluffy yarn; plus 2x50g balls of white 8ply wool or acrylic.)
2x double
pointed 6mm needles, used for knitting the I-cord for the tail.
2 safety eyes.
A black flock nose.
2 safety eyes.
A black flock nose.
A small amount
of polyester fibre-fill.
The tea cosy measures 20 cm wide and 16 cm high when laid flat.
The tea cosy measures 20 cm wide and 16 cm high when laid flat.
Cosy
body
Use two strands of Cassowary (or one strand of cassowary plus one strand of 8ply yarn) worked together throughout the project. This will produce a firm thick fabric; perfect for keeping the tea in your pot nice and warm.
Use two strands of Cassowary (or one strand of cassowary plus one strand of 8ply yarn) worked together throughout the project. This will produce a firm thick fabric; perfect for keeping the tea in your pot nice and warm.
Back
With 6mm
needles and two strands of yarn, cast on 26 stitches,
Work for 10 cm in garter stitch (knit every row).
Work for 10 cm in garter stitch (knit every row).
Start
decreasing: Row 1. K2, K2tog, K to the last 4 stitches, K2tog, K2.
Row 2. Knit.
Repeat these 2 rows till 22 sts remain.
Row 2. Knit.
Repeat these 2 rows till 22 sts remain.
Tie a
length of coloured yarn around the thread that lies between the 11th
and 12th stitches. This marks the position where the tail will be
attached later.
Continue decreasing
as before, until 14 stitches remain.
Next row; (K2, K2tog) x3, K2. (11 sts)
Next row; K2, K2 tog, K3, K2 tog, K2 (9 sts)
Cast off.
Next row; (K2, K2tog) x3, K2. (11 sts)
Next row; K2, K2 tog, K3, K2 tog, K2 (9 sts)
Cast off.
Front
With 6mm
needles, and two strands of yarn, cast on 26 stitches.
Knit 2
rows. Mark the positions for paws by tying a length of coloured yarn on the
thread between the 9th and 10th stitches, and between the
17th and 18th stitches.
Continue knitting until the work measures 10 cm.
Start decreasing: Row 1. K2, K2tog, K to the last 4 stitches, K2tog, K2.
Row 2. knit.
Repeat these 2 rows till 22 sts remain.
Continue knitting until the work measures 10 cm.
Start decreasing: Row 1. K2, K2tog, K to the last 4 stitches, K2tog, K2.
Row 2. knit.
Repeat these 2 rows till 22 sts remain.
Tie a
length of coloured yarn on to the thread that lies between the 10th
and 11th stitches. This marks the position where the centre back of
the head will be attached later.
Continue decreasing
until 14 stitches remain.
Next row; (K2, K2tog) x3, K2. (11 sts)
Next row; K2, K2 tog, K3, K2 tog, K2 (9 sts)
Cast off.
Next row; (K2, K2tog) x3, K2. (11 sts)
Next row; K2, K2 tog, K3, K2 tog, K2 (9 sts)
Cast off.
Stitch the front and back together by joining 2½cm
at the base. Leave a 10cm gap each side for the handle and spout, then join
across the top.
Head
Using 2strands of yarn together, cast on 20 sts.
Head
Using 2strands of yarn together, cast on 20 sts.
Knit 4
rows
Next row,
(Increase in next st, K1), repeat to the end of the row. (30 stitches).
Continue,
knitting every row without shaping until the work measures 6 cm.
Decrease on
each row as follows:
Row 1. K8,
K2 tog, K10, K2 tog, K8
Row 2. K8,
K2 tog, K8, K2 tog, K8
Row 3. K8,
K2 tog, K6, K2 tog, K8
Row 4. K8,
K2 together, tie a coloured yarn onto the thread between the 9th and
10th stitches. K4, tie a
coloured yarn onto the thread between the 13th and 14th
stitches, K2 together, K8. These two pieces of yarn mark the position of the
eyes.
Row 5. K8,
K2 tog, K2, K2 tog, K8
Row 6. K2,
K2 tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, K2 tog, K2. (18 stitches)
Repeat this row till 10 sts remain.
K2 tog all along next row, (5 sts)
Cast off. Tie a coloured thread on the middle stitch of the cast off row. This marks the position where the nose is attached.
Repeat this row till 10 sts remain.
K2 tog all along next row, (5 sts)
Cast off. Tie a coloured thread on the middle stitch of the cast off row. This marks the position where the nose is attached.
Fold the head in half, so that
the two side edges are together.
With a length of yarn, sew along
the outer edges of the work from the nose marker on the cast-off edge, all the
way along the side edge. Leave the cast-on edge open. With a 60cm length of plain
yarn in a matching colour, sew a running stitch around the cast on edge,
leaving it open.
The marker on the cast off edge
is the spot to place the nose. The side seam of the work is the lower edge of
the head. On the upper side, the eyes and the nose are positioned to form a 4cm
equilateral triangle. The markers will help find the approximate spots, but
it’s a good idea to make some small adjustments to the positions to give a cute
appearance. Attach the nose and eyes.
Using some polyester fibre, stuff
the head quite firmly, and close by pulling the ends of the running stitch.
Fasten, but don’t cut off the excess yarn. To give the face a bit more shape,
with a darning needle, and one piece of yarn at a time, take a small stitch,
entering from the back of the head through to the front, next to an eye, on the
nose side, and return the needle to the back of the head. Repeat for the other
eye. Pull the threads just enough to give the face a friendly expression.
Fasten off. The remaining ends of the yarn can then be used to attach the head
to the body.
Position the centre back of the
head on to the marker on the front side of the body. Squash the head a little
with your fingers, and sew onto the body, leaving the top half of the head
free.
Tail
Using a pair of double pointed needles, and 2 strands of yarn, cast on 3 sts, and work an I-cord for 8 cm.
In case you need reminding of how to do an I-cord, it goes like this......
knit 3, don't turn your work, just push it across to the other end of the needle, and K3 again. Just repeat this for the length required, and cast off.
Attach to the back of the cosy in the marked spot, or where it looks right to you. The tail will curl a little by itself.
Ears
Using two strands of yarn, cast on 6 sts. Knit one row. Second row, increase one stitch at each end; 8 sts.
Knit 4 rows.
Start decreasing.
In the middle of each row; decrease one stitch per row until 3 sts remain.
Knit 3 rows. Cast off.
To place the ears, first measure 3cm vertically up from the top of the eye. Pin each ear in position, 3-4 cm above the eye; adjust slightly to give a pleasing appearance. The ears are sewn on with the cast-off edge pointing to the outside of the face; when sewn; flip over.
Paws
Cast on 10sts with 2 strands of yarn together, on 6mm needles.
Knit 6 rows.
Cast off.
Join side seams, run a gathering stitch around the top, pull tight; stuff with the tails of the yarns...the paws are little and this is probably enough stuffing. You can add a bit of polyester fibre fill if you think it needs it. Run another gathering stitch around the open end, pull tight to form a ball.
Attach the paws to the front of the cosy at the marked spots.
Using a pair of double pointed needles, and 2 strands of yarn, cast on 3 sts, and work an I-cord for 8 cm.
In case you need reminding of how to do an I-cord, it goes like this......
knit 3, don't turn your work, just push it across to the other end of the needle, and K3 again. Just repeat this for the length required, and cast off.
Attach to the back of the cosy in the marked spot, or where it looks right to you. The tail will curl a little by itself.
Ears
Using two strands of yarn, cast on 6 sts. Knit one row. Second row, increase one stitch at each end; 8 sts.
Knit 4 rows.
Start decreasing.
In the middle of each row; decrease one stitch per row until 3 sts remain.
Knit 3 rows. Cast off.
To place the ears, first measure 3cm vertically up from the top of the eye. Pin each ear in position, 3-4 cm above the eye; adjust slightly to give a pleasing appearance. The ears are sewn on with the cast-off edge pointing to the outside of the face; when sewn; flip over.
Paws
Cast on 10sts with 2 strands of yarn together, on 6mm needles.
Knit 6 rows.
Cast off.
Join side seams, run a gathering stitch around the top, pull tight; stuff with the tails of the yarns...the paws are little and this is probably enough stuffing. You can add a bit of polyester fibre fill if you think it needs it. Run another gathering stitch around the open end, pull tight to form a ball.
Attach the paws to the front of the cosy at the marked spots.
Copyright © Lorraine Dunbar
Tuesday, 22 May 2018
Here's a free pattern for the owl tea cosy.
Please support our Cancer Council fundraiser by donating a hand made tea cosy or soft toy to the Tea Cosy Competition.
Scroll down to the previous posts on this page, to check out all the information that you need, to help us achieve our goal of raising $50,000 for the Cancer Council.
These tea cosies have been crocheted in Patons Lite Inca yarn, available from http://stores.ebay.com.au/Creativity-to-Go
Owl Tea Cosy
Worked in crocodile stitch and double crochet.
You’ll need a 4 mm crochet hook, and 2 x 50g balls of 8 ply
yarn, plus a small quantity of a lighter colour yarn for the eye circles.
2 purchased eyes. Bead or toggle button for the beak.
First side.
With a 4 mm crochet hook and 8 ply yarn, make 29 chain.
Row 1. Work 1 treble in the 5th chain from the
hook, *miss 2 chain.
In the next stitch, work 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr.* Repeat
from * to * to the end of the row.
Note that there are now 9 V-shapes.
Turn.
Row 2. Right Side. Work 3 chain. This counts as the
1st treble. Working down the right- hand side of the first
V-shape, work 4 more treble, 1 chain.
Note that the treble are worked such that the Wrong
Side of the treble stitches forms the Right Side of the work. The stitches sit
nicely when worked this way.
Rotate the work so that you can now work 5 treble
up the left hand side of the V-stitch. This completes one crocodile scale.
Continue along the row: *miss the next V stitch; work 5 treble, 1chain, 5
treble into the next V-stitch.* Work from * to * to the end of the row. (5
scales.)
Note: When working the last treble of the last
scale, instead of working it over the shaft of the V-stitch, work it into the 2nd
last chain stitch; this will avoid making a hole larger than the others.
Turn.
Row 3. 3 chain; work a V-stitch (1 tr, 1 ch, 1
tr) in each of the 1chain spaces of the first row. Work the hook under the
join between the crocodile scales as well as the 1 ch space, as you work every
second V-stitch. Finish with 1 tr into the third of the 3 ch that was worked at
the beginning of row 2.
Turn.
Row 4. Slip stitch into the first 2 treble and into
the 1 ch space of the first V-stitch. *Into the next V-stitch, work 5 tr, 1 ch,
5 tr. Miss the next V-stitch.* Repeat from * to * until 1 V-stitch remains. Slip
stitch into the 1 ch space, into the last treble, and into the 3rd
of the 3 chain. Turn. (4 scales)
Row 5. As for row 3, except that the last treble
will be worked into the treble of the previous row.
Row 6. 1 ch, 5 tr down post of first V-stitch, 1
ch, 5 tr up other side of V-stitch. Miss 1 V stitch. Repeat to the end of the
row. Slip stitch into the 3rd of the 3 chain.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 7 rows of scales have
been completed; ending with a row 6.
Decrease.
Row 1. For the next V stitch row, 3 chain, miss the first 1
chain space; V stitch into each of the next 7 1-chain spaces; miss the last
1-chain space; 1 treble into the last stitch of the row.
Row 2. Work 4 crocodile scales.
Break off yarn.
Second side.
Work as for the first side; don’t break off the yarn.
Sew the lower edges together, for approx. 2 cm.
Working in rounds with right side facing, 4 chain, 1 treble
into the same spot as the 1st chain, catch the top corner of the
other side of the tea cosy as you work this stitch. Continue around with a ‘row
3’ as before, catching the two top edges of the other side of the tea cosy as
you work around. End with a slip stitch into the 3rd of the 4
starting chain.
Next round, slip stitch across the next 1 chain space and
into the second 1 ch space.
Work one round of ‘scales’. End with a slip stitch into the
first treble.
Head.
Round 1. 6 dc into a magic ring.
Round 2. 2 dc into each dc. (12 stitches)
Round 3. (1 dc into 1st stitch, 2 dc into next
stitch) repeat x 6. (18 stitches)
Round 4. (2 dc into 1st stitch, 1 dc into next 2
stitches) repeat x 6. (24 stitches)
Round 5. (1 dc into each of the next 3 stitches, 2 dc into
the next stitch) repeat x 6. (30 stitches)
Round 6. (1 dc into each of the next 4 stitches, 2 dc into
the next stitch) repeat x 6. (36 stitches)
Round 7. (1 dc into each of the next 5 stitches, 2 dc into
the next stitch) repeat x 6. (42 stitches)
Rounds 8-18. Work 1 dc into every stitch.
Rounds 19. 1 dc into the
back loop only of each stitch.
Round 20. (5 dc, decrease.) 36 stitches.
Round 21. (4 dc, decrease.) 30 stitches.
Round 22. (3 dc, decrease.) 24 stitches.
Round 23. (2 dc, decrease.) 18 stitches.
Round 24. (1 dc, decrease.) 12 stitches.
Round 25. Work 1 dc in each stitch…..12 sts.
Finish off, leaving a 15 cm tail of yarn.
Eye circles.
Make 2.
Using a 4mm hook and a lighter colour, work 4 chain, join
with a slip stitch to form a ring.
Round 1. 1 chain, 8 dc into the ring……. 8 stitches
Round 2. 2 dc into
each dc of the previous row…….. 16 stitches.
Round 3. (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc into next dc), repeat x 8………
24 stitches
Round 4. (1 dc into each of next 2 dc, 2 dc into next dc)
repeat x 8…… 32 stitches
Finish off; leave a 30 cm tail of yarn.
Pin the eye circles in place; the lower edge of the circle
should be just touching the 16th row. The circles should nearly meet
at the centre front.
Attach the purchased eyes through the centre of the circles
and through the head.
Stuff the head softly, so that the base (area below the 19th
row) sits flat.
Using the tail of yarn at the lower end of the head, stitch a
row of running stitches around the opening.
Pull the gathering thread tightly and fasten off the opening.
Slip stitch the eye circles onto the head, using the yarn
tail. Finish off.
If desired, stitch a fluffy yarn around the outer edge of the
eye circles to give a feathery look.
Sew on a bead or toggle button for the beak.
To make the owl more ‘owlish’, needle sculpt the face as
follows:
Thread a large darning needle with yarn in the same colour as
the eye circles .Insert the needle through the middle of the base of the head;
let it come out close to the inner side of one eye. Take a tiny stitch, and
pull the needle through close to the insertion spot. Pull the ends to make the eye
go deeper into the head. Anchor the stitch securely. Repeat for the other eye.
Head ‘feathers’
Please note…these are not ears.
Work 11 chain. Treble into the 5 chain from the hook. *Miss 2
chain, work 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble into the next stitch.* Repeat from *
to*. 3 chain, turn.
Work 2 crocodile stitch scales as before. Fasten off.
Fold horizontally. Attach the head feathers, using the photo
as a guide.
Finish off
Join the head to the crocodile stitch body. The centre front
of the head is in line with the centre front of work. The openings
for the handle and spout of the teapot line up with the sides of the head.
Slip stitch the top of the body to the loops along row 19 of
the head.
Finish off ends
Copyright © Lorraine Dunbar
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